There just isn’t enough time to do everything I want to do; visit all the Wineries, see all the incredibly beautiful places, eat at all the terrific restaurants, and taste all the wines you want to taste!
As I stated in the Day One article, I could have every minute taken up with appointments if I chose too. But that wasn’t what my lovely bride Margie and I wanted to do on day two. We both have been burning the candle at both ends the last several months at our jobs, and we needed some Margie & Terry time. We wanted to just let it happen as it came with a two basic starting points:
Start in the City of Healdsburg, Sonoma County
Spend time together talking, laughing, meeting people, and making memories
We awoke on Saturday morning at the Hilton Sonoma Wine Country Hotelin Santa Rosa needing coffee really bad. While the Hilton Sonoma Wine Country is comfortable and in a great location for Sonoma, I have to say the hotel needs a serious renovation. They do offer a full service restaurant, large rooms, and amenities such as wine tastings in the evening. However the rooms look like they were decorated in 1980. And the pool was completely torn apart and we had to listen to the workers refinishing the pool. But… we don’t spend a lot of time in our rooms; we basically sleep there and go, go, go! I personally prefer the newer Marriot Courtyard for my money.
We dressed, had coffee and a light breakfast at the hotel and back to our room to get ready for the day. We decided to drive to Healdsburg Square, park the car, and just discover the town. We arrived about 11:00 AM. After parking we strolled around dipping inside the many shops lined around the square, as Margie dearly loves to shop. I think it is something in women’s DNA. I am convinced that the word “SALE” works as a pheromone that draws women into a store, where they can nearly always find something “cute”! Along with clothes, you will find terrific restaurants, candy shops, bakeries with lots of goodies, ice cream shops, and lots of places with home and kitchen goods..
Square in Healdsburg, CA
I really did not mind walking around the shops, because about every 4-5 shops it seems is a wine producer sampling their wines. Well, it would be rude not to do a tasting right? We first stopped for a tasting at Roadhouse Winery tucked away in the corner of the square.
Roadhouse Winery
I have to tell you I was a little hesitant at first, but also intrigued as well because I am currently on my Pinot Noir kick. Plus I really liked the label. The young men inside were laughing, joking around, and NOT taking much very serious…except their pinot noir. This they were very serious and enthusiastic about the product. And they should have been because the Pinot Noir that they were pouring was great! In fact I bought 4 bottles and brought them back to Texas.
Next was an ice cream break at Noble Folk Ice Cream and Pie. With a great selection of delicious deserts to temp you! And anyone that really knows me understands I love my ice cream as much as my wine.
On around the square for more shopping and wine tastings. We enjoyed the wines at Portalupi Wines so much we bought a glass each and sat down to chat and sip the terrific wine and decide our next move!
Portalupi Tasting Room Healdsburg Square
Remember, we had very little agenda upfront and decided to just let the day come to us. So we decided since we love the Dry Creek AVA so much; let’s drop the top on the convertable and go discover!
First stop is one of our favorite places in Sonoma; Dry Creek General Store. Established in 1881, the Dry Creek General Store is a very historic and unique establishment that is still to this day a local hangout. They offer great crafted sandwiches, soups, salads, and local gifts. We have a a tradition of buying coffee cups every time we stop to remind us of our great times in the valley. You can get a great sandwich or salad made to order, then head to the gardens or on the front stoop to enjoys with the locals. Many times we will load up on picnic supplies and head over to one of the local wineries to picnic. Regardless this is a MUST STOP when in the area!
Dry Creek general Store
After a great sandwich, and wine out of our new coffee mugs, we are off to explore!
Dry Creek General Store Mugs
Feeling adventurous we just took a road and drove, looking and exploring until we ran upon a small winery by the name of Zichichi Family Vineyard.
There was a small sign out front that got my attention: “Wine Enthusiast 95 Points”
Zichichi Sauvignon Blanc wowed us!
Now we were WAY off the beaten path, but what the heck? Let’s check it out. We were extremely surprised and pleased.
A little history of Zichichi:
In 2000 a New Orleans Physician Steve Zichichi and his wife Kristen purchased the 22 acres in Dry Creek Valley. 14 acres of zinfandel and 4 acres of petit sirah, all planted in 1928 and 1964 by the previous Bartolozzi Ranch. After several years of selling grapes to local wineries, the Zichichi’s built their own winery in 2006. They now produce an Estate Zinfandel, an Old Vine Zinfandel, A Cabernet Sauvignon, a Petite Sirah, and an incredible Sauvignon Blanc that blew me away!
In fact, we loved the Sauvignon Blanc so much that we bought a case and shipped it to Texas, where we almost immediately drank every bottle and wished we had bought 2 cases! I am on the very short member list now, and have already bought the next vintage. They are very unique in that they sell out most of their wines to members every year, usually within 3 months.
We were taken to the back for barrel samples of the upcoming vintages of Old Vine Zinfandel and this was quite impressive. You can really see how well the wines have been made, and the promise to come in a few years. We will stop in again next trip to the area.
After driving around the wondrous beauty of Dry Creek and Russian River Valley, we headed back to the room to rest up, then clean up for dinner. I made dinner reservations at Willi’s Wine Barin Santa Rosa. Margie and I had visited, and loved the original Willi’s Wine Bar in Paris, and in fact have artwork in our entryway of our home from the famous establishment in Paris. While I understood already that they were not affiliated, I was still intrigued.
While Willi’s Wine Bar was almost nothing like the Paris version, it was a very nice wine country restaurant, lots of character, and a very impressive wine list.
We like to arrive before our reservations and sit at the bar. We meet a lot of wonderful Bartenders and staff, as well as the patrons at the bar. We enjoyed a terrific bottle of Black Kitty Pinot Noir Soberanes Vineyard that was a suggestion of the Bartender. It was nicely perfumed with aromas of raspberry, violets, chocolate, and somewhat earthy. Chew tannins, and black cherry bursting in our mouth. Delicious Pinot Noir! We had a wonderful time at dinner, food was very good, and I would suggest it when in Santa Rosa.
Willi’s Wine Bar Santa Rosa, CA
The next day was pack up and go home day. I carry with me a great packable wine shipper called “Wine Check”. It holds 12 bottles of wine in Styrofoam, covered by a very sturdy box, and then covered by a padded heavy duty vinyl cover. It has a removable strap and wheels on one end for easy transport. It weights 45-48 lbs full and you can check it as luggage on the plane!
Wine Check – Holds 12 bottles
I always bring back a nice booty of wine to enjoy!
Wine Booty March 2015!
Margie and I had a short, but incredible time in Wine Country. I hope this article helps you plan your next trip. If you ever want me to assist you with where to go taste wine, great places to eat, and beautiful places to visit feel free to email me. I would be happy to help you with suggestions.
Just keep in mind:
A Weekend in Wine Country is Never Enough!
Thank you again for reading the ramblings of a Texas Wineaux!
(Please leave a comment,good or bad, because I need the feedback.)
Jeff Manghas took over as Winemaker early 2015 at the iconic Williams-Selyem Wineryafter 3 years as the Assistant Winemaker working under the legendary Bob Cabral.
Jeff Mangahas has big shoes to fill at Williams-Selyem Winery
Because Bob Cabral is a living legend in wine… world wide
In 2007 Wine Enthusiast awarded Bob’s Litton Estate Pinot Noir a perfect 100 points. It is the first Pinot Noir in North America given 100 points by any major wine publication. Then in 2011 he was awarded Winemaker of the Year for 2011by Wine Enthusiast Magazine. Bob follows fellow past honorees Genevieve Janssensof Robert Mondavi Winery (2010), Scott McLeodof Rubicon Estate & Francis Ford Coppola (2009), Margo Van Staaveren of Chateau St. Jean (2008), Carlo Ferrini of Italy (2007), and Olivier Humbrecht of Domain Zind-Humbrecht, France (2006).
As I said; Big shoes to fill.
Jeff Mangahas joined Williams Selyem from his position as Winemaker at Hartford Court, where he oversaw all aspects of winemaking for the ultra-premium Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Zinfandel producer. Jeff received his Master’s in Enology from UC Davis, in addition to his B.A. in Molecular Biology from the University of Washington. He began his winemaking career as a cellar hand at Artesa Winery prior to becoming the assistant to Dan Goldfield at Dutton Goldfield Winery, digging into the world of cool-climate Pinot wine growing. Then he was on to the role of Winemaker at Hartford Family Winery, specializing in Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast appellations.
So when he stepped down as Winemaker at Hartford Court to Assistant Winemaker at Williams-Selyem you had to read between the lines that he was being groomed to take over for Bob Cabral someday.
Not a bad move if you ask me…
So when I sat down to interview Jeff Mangahas back in March 2015, I was excited and curious how the transition and passing of the torch was going. Jeff was very gracious, well spoken, and is a terrific spokesman for this iconic winery.
Jeff and my wife Margie at winery
Terry: Bob Cabral helped define the style that is Williams-Selyem, and in the process achieved legendary status, not only in California but the world. These are big shoes to fill. How will you deviate if any from this style, and how will you make these wines your own?
Jeff: The realility is Burt Williams was the first Winemaker at Williams-Selyem and a lot of his philosophy… and we will take a tour and take a look at the tanks here, but Bert put in place the process that is Williams-Selyem. He sourced the best grapes throughout the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast, sites of uniqueness, sites that have expressiveness that speak volumes about the process we have here at Williams-Selyem. Bob studied under Burt, and I studied under Bob. So the reality is the process is pretty much identical. Not to say we don’t do things a little bit differently, because we do. But the philosophy stays the same that Burt instituted.
Terry: How long did you work under Bob?
Jeff: I started in 2011, so it was a number of years, three years or so. So this process; down to the barrels and the same cooper, the same house toast that Burt used when he started the winery in 1981. Same barrels that Bob used, and the same barrels that I use today. The fermentation tanks that we use are really very unique. We use these dairy tanks so they are very non traditional. You think of tanks as round, upright tanks. Ours are horizontal and actually used dairy tanks that have the ideal ratio of skin to juice that really allow us to define our style. And whether you go from Burt to Bob to me, it is that wonderful texture which I’m sure you understand. And that is largely due to how we make our wines in these tanks. Most of our wines are in that 13.5 to 13.8% alc range. Coupled with the way that we make the wines, it makes for freshness and acidity that allows for longevity and elegance. There is something about what we do that has a unique texture. I mean I can always pick our wines out of a blind tasting.
Terry: So can I.
Jeff: Exactly, there is a signature to that. So to partly answer the question ‘what have I changed’? I really haven’t changed anything.
Terry: As my grandfather used to say ‘If it ain’t broke don’t fix it’.
Jeff: Exactly, obviously we as winemakers are always going to have these small differences, but it never deviates from the philosophy of what Burt did.
Terry: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the primary varietals of Williams-Selyem, both were originated in Burgundy France. Although the terroir is obvioulsly different, in fact worlds apart. What can you tell me about how the wines of William-Selyem are similar and how are they completely different?
Jeff: It’s kind of a difficult question to answer because obviously the varietals are the same and the spirit of the wines are the same. But the climate is so different, and we make a little bit of zinfandel as well. But mostly pinot noir and a tiny bit of chardonnay. Arguably those two varieties express the site very well. Obviously we have very different soil types here, more of a sandy kind of loam. In Burgundy it is more of limestone rich. Our heat units are a lot more consistent here in this region. So it is almost impossible to make those comparisons because we are making unique wines, just like they are making unique wines in Burgundy. Or in Oregon, as they are making unique wines because the soils are so different. What I love about what we do is we make 25 different pinot noirs on average, and about 19 of these are vineyard designate. And if one were to taste all those wines side by side you would find transparency in the sight. It is the nature of pinot noir. It translates that sense of place very well. And our wine making style is geared towards highlighting that sense of place in that we do. Everything exactly the same across all vineyard sights and each individual blocks. Same kind of tanks, same kind of barrels, so when you are tasting the wines the uniqueness and expression of the flavor profile really becomes apparent. It is just hard to compare. The soils are different, the weather is different, more fog here than Burgundy, certainly more than Oregon and that has an impact on preserving acidity. So it’s all pinot noir in spirit. But what everyone has in common with pinot noir is it’s ability to be specific to the sight. I think that is what we all have in common.
Terry: William-Selyem has a rather large portfolio, especially considering your near cult status. Are you making too many wines?
Jeff: I don’t think so, I mean again just being able to go back and taste all the pinot noirs side by side, they are all very unique and different. We are making a small production for each one of those. I think it is great for our customers to have that education level. And we have five different Chardonnays and they seem to enjoy them and continue buying them. So no, I don’t think we are making to many wines.
Terry: As long as the quality is there they will continue buying them.
Jeff: Exactly
Terry: How do you assure such quality across the board? Because you do have a very large portfolio.
Jeff: We have a phenomenal team across the board, both in the cellar and the vineyards. We work with great Vineyard Managers from all the vineyards we buy from, and our own Vineyard Manager here is great. But to be sure it isn’t easy. There is a lot of hours and a lot of precision work that goes into that. As much as anything as we start the growing season, and the shoots are a couple of inches at this point, I make regular rounds with the Vineyard Managers, and meeting with all to make sure everything is going as it should.
Terry: How often are you in the field?
Jeff: During the growing season definitely almost every day. Depending on my work on this ranch, then going up to Anderson Valley, then up to a vineyard called Ferrington Vineyard and work with that manager, so every day I’m in a different place. And yes, it’s almost overwhelming but keeping tabs on everything is the key.
Terry: Do you plans for a broader release of wines like a cabernet sauvignon or a sparkling?
Jeff: We do already produce a small amount of sparkling to people that visit the winery only. It is not available on the members list. It’s pinot noir, so it is a blanc de noir that we make. We dabbled in blanc de blanc but we settled on the blanc de noir. I want to say our first vintage was 2003, and it’s only 50-100 cases. Nothing on a commercial scale, it is simply to dabble and when we do events. It’s nice to be able to open a sparkling wine to start the evening. Beyond that no, we are not launching sparkling on a bigger scale. As far as the other varieties, this is Russian River, so we try and stay with what grows well here. Other wise we dabbled in a vineyard that has some limestone near Calera that we made a little Chinon Blanc that was very expressive of the sight. 150 cases, again only wines that are available if you visit the winery.
Terry: Kind of like Blue Bell Ice cream in the South; you “drink all you can and sell the rest”?
Jeff: Ha! Exactly!
Terry: Are you married?
Jeff: Yes I am.
Terry: Children?
Jeff: One 8-year old little girl.
Terry: I know the hours and commitment it takes to produce arguably some of the finest pinot noir and other varieties in the entire world has got to be very stressful. How do you balance these incredible responsibilities and still have any personal life?
Jeff: It’s difficult at times, but my wife Crystal is incredible supportive. This is my 15th year making wine and I’ve always been committed to work and have family. I’ve always wanted those two things and I am committed. And it is incredible to have someone that is so supportive. That is how I’ve been so successful in my life is that support at home.
Terry: I know it is more hours at different times of the year, sometimes I am sure it is 18 hour days. How many hours per week do you typically work?
Jeff: It is really hard to quantify exactly, I pretty much work as much as I need to get the job done. Sometimes its in the winery, or at events or what have you. Sometimes I do travel, but an average day, even when not in harvest, I usually come in at 6:00 and leave at 6:30. There is a lot to do. And if you are going to meet with someone, you have to prepare for the meeting so you just have to do what needs to be done.
Terry: And I know how precious your time is so I really do appreciate this time you are spending with me.
Jeff: You are very welcome, glad to speak to you.
Terry: Jeff, I have a better than average palate with quite a few bottles of wine at the house. I keep so many bottles because I don’t always know what mood I will be in. Often the mood dictates what I will open. That is why I keep such a broad spectrum of wines on hand, from Burgundy to Napa Valley Cabs and lots of French wines, and everything in between. Even though I write about wines, sometimes it just comes down to “what wine makes me smile”. So what wines make you smile?
Jeff: I enjoy drinking our own wines, and we have a large library of older wines. So I have been able to taste through those after they have benefited from age, and I really enjoy those. Wines can often times be a difficult to describe, and sometimes I don’t actually feel like I need to describe them. You just think; oh my gosh this is great and you know you need to sit down and just enjoy it without putting much thought to it. Example of this; a couple of weekends ago I had the opportunity to drink a 1990 Williams-Selyem. It was 24 years old and still vibrant, fresh and I didn’t feel the need to pick it apart or to decide if the balance was perfect. It was just one of those times that I just enjoyed it, and it gave me a lot of pleasure. This was one of those moments. You know I am a student of the wines of the world and have traveled and I am a fan of Champagne. I love Burgundy, and I have tasted a lot of wines in my career, and even before getting into the wine industry.
Terry: Have you worked overseas?
Jeff: No I’ve never worked anywhere but here in Russian River but I feel like I am a student of the wines of the world because I have traveled to Burgundy, I’ve traveled to Italy, I grew up in Washington State and I’ve tried a lot of wines from Washington and Oregon, and obviously throughout California. I appreciate a great bottle of wine and you can almost taste that handcrafted style in the best wines of the world and those are the wines that I crave.
Terry: I’ve heard it takes a lot of beer to make a great wine. Is that true?
Jeff: Ha! Ha! It is! I actually make beer as well. In my off time I enjoy that, so yes that is absolutly true.
Terry: What kind of beer to you enjoy?
Jeff: I enjoy an IPA on occasion, but mostly I enjoy a softer and maltier beer, like red ales and Scottish ales. Slightly less bitter and are fun and interesting. We certainly have Russian River Brewing Company here in Santa Rosa and I enjoy a Blind Pig or a Pliny every now and then.
Terry: Do you get the Pliney the Younger?
Jeff: Ya know, I haven’t done it in many years. It used to be less popular, now it has become so popular but I just can’t stand in line for it for 3-4 hours. And it is great what they have done with making it so popular, but it just gets to the point with work and family there just isn’t enough time. I would rather be playing with my daughter. As fun as it would be to go try the latest vintage of Pliney, I’d rather be playing with my daughter.
Terry: You are very well known in certain circles, and have gained a certain celebrity status because of your job. Can you walk into a restaurant and people not know who you are?
Jeff: Absolutely. Obviously having lived in this community I know a lot of people, but I like that I have a certain unanimity still. It’s all good.
Terry: And finally, anything new and exciting that my readers should know about that will be coming from Williams-Selyem in the coming year?
Jeff: There are a few vineyards that have come on line in 2011, and working with those Vineyard Managers and Growers heavily for the improved quality. We are always looking for opportunities to improve, that’s how you get better for sure. There are a couple of vineyards that I am really excited about, they are performing really well and as the vines get older. We are looking for consistency. The 2014 vintage that we just finished blending, and so far is a phenomenal vintage, so I am definitely looking forward to that. It will be interesting to see how the ’12, ’13 and ’14 vintages; each super high quality, and hopefully the customers will be able to appreciate that it isn’t just a broken record, that it just isn’t this good all the time. There is a real precision that the ’14 wines have that I am really excited about. Unfortunately those wines will not be released until 2016, but that is definitely something that you can look forward to for sure.
Terry: 2011 was a very challenging vintage. Did you see some of your clientele not taking all of their allocation?
Jeff: No we sold out. It was also below average in terms of quantity. We produced less wine produced in that vintage. We had some issues with flowering because of the bad weather that reduced the crops by 1/3. So in a lot of cases we were down in production by 25-30%. So we sold out.
Thank you Jeff!
As I said, I found Jeff very gracious, intelligent, and a with real passion for what he does. More so; a realization how fortunate he is to have the reins of this incredible bastion of World Class Pinot Noir! He definitely knows the challenges he has in front of him and the legacy he is following with Burt Williams and Bob Cabral, but he knows what he is doing I assure you.
I went in to the interview with a certain amount of skepticalism and left with a sense that Williams-Selyem is in very capable hands. I believe that Jeff will keep this iconic winery producing some of the best Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Zinfandel in the entire world
.
Talking Wine with Jeff Mangahas
And I want to thank Jeff for spending so much time with my wife Margie and I (2-1/2 hours). I understand how precious your time is and I cannot express how much we both appreciate everything you did done for us and more importantly the time spent with us.
Congratulations Jeff Mangahas!
Custom French Oak Barrels $2700 ea!
My 2015 Williams-Selyem Allotment!
Thank you for reading the ramblings of Terry Hill, The TEXAS WINEAUX!
Do you know where your grapes actually came from or what is actually in that bottle of wine you paid top dollar for?
It is date night at home with that special person and you want to make it memoriable.
You pull that very special bottle of Napa Valley Cabernet Savignon you bought many years ago that has been on laying on its side in the cellar peacefully for 10+ years. You’ve been saving this incredible wine for just for this type of occation. That “POP” as you carefully pull the cork with precision and decant it in your favorite wide bottom decanter is all part of the antisipation of what is to come! As you decant very slowly to make sure all the sediment stays in the bottle and not in your glass, the excitment is simply palpble.
To add a certain allurement and grandeur, Tonight’s wine is a great exuse to break out the special Riedel Sommeliers Series Bordeaux Grand Cru wine glasses that ONLY come out for your best wines. You clean and polish them to perfection “extra carefully” as to not torque the stems because you know the stem will snap in your hands!
The Prime aged Ribeyes that were hand cut earlier for you have been marinating all day in your special “double-secret marinad” that always brings raves from family and friends. The meat sizzles as you slap them on the hot grill.
Everything is perfect…right?
Do you really know your wine? Are you sure the fruit from cabernet sauvignon wine you paid top dollor for is actually from the Napa Valley region? Is it even 100% cabernet sauvignon, or is it actually a blend of merlot, cab franc, petit verdot or even (god fobid) malbec?
You may be surprised about the answer:
Maybe… but maybe not!
There was a big movement in Texas a few years back to make sure that if a Texas wine says “Texas Wine” on the label, the grapes actually are from Texas! There are a few producers in Texas that have bought, or are still buying bulk juice from other states, including Arizona, New Mexico, or even California. I know this may seem very silly to the novice or naive wine consumer, but nothing could have been farther from the truth.
One of the biggest leaders of this movement for correct labeling wines is a friend of mine. Russ Kane is a Writer, Blogger, and huge proponant of Texas Wines. Russ is known as “Texas Wineslinger”. He was the one that brought this travesty to my attention atTexSomabout 5-6 years ago. Because of Russ (and many others like him) and the dilligence and hard work to get the word out; the laws were changed in Texas.
If wine producers are going to use “Texas” on the label, at least 75% of the fruit must be sourced from Texas.
Be very carefull because some so called Texas Wines will attempt to desguise the bottles. But by Texas Laws they are now required to label them the confusing “Not for sale outside of Texas” in tiny-tiny lettering. So if you want real Texas Wines made from “real Texas Grapes” please carefully read the label!
And if you have automatically dismissed Texas Wines as not worthy, you really should check out some of the incredible TEXAS WINES coming out of such producers as: McPherson Cellars, William Chris Vineyards, Pedernales Cellars, Brennan Vineyards, Spicewood Vineyards, Fall Creek Vineyards, and Duchman Family Vineyards. I am especially enamored with the move away from the old standard Cab, Merlot, and Chardonnay, and now producing Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, and Sangiovese that are better suited for the hot dry Texas summer and the terroir.
So is that bottle of wine really what it says it is?
When you shell out $100-$350 and more for a bottle of Rutherford cabernet sauvignon, you trust that the bottle is filled with wine that actually came from cabernet sauvignon grapes that were grown in the heart of California’s Napa Valley and specificaly Rutherford AVA, right? That is normaly the case, but not always!
Jeff Hill, Founder of the Hill Wine Company (no relation) and longtime Napa Vineyard Manager was a serious player in Napa Valley wine scene for many years, and very respected. He worked his way from pest control in a vineyard to a maker of $100+ cabernet sauvignon wines in the prestigous Silverado Trail, a destination for wine aficionados from around the world.
The federal government forced Mr. Hill to cede control of his business on April 23, and Napa County prosecutors have charged him with two felonies, saying that on two occasions in October 2013 he stole grapes that his crew was harvesting for another winemaker and diverted them to his own winery. He is accused of substituting much cheaper merlot and malbec grapes for the much more expensive Napa cabernet sauvignon advertised on his wine labels.
In January, he pleaded not guilty to the criminal charges, and a trial is set to begin April 13. If convicted, he faces up to four years and eight months in prison. Hill Wine has filed for bankruptcy and owes more than $8 million to creditors.
So how do we know what is in the wine and at what percentages? Here are rules for California wines produced in the state:
California Appellation of Origin
Wine labels may contain several types of geographic designations of origin:
Appellations of origin that are the names of states and counties can be used on wine labels under federal law if at least 75% of the grapes come from the named state or county. The remainder of the grapes may come from outside the named state or county.
For wine labeled with an American viticultural area (“AVA”), which is a specific type of appellation of origin established under federal law, at least 85% of the grapes must come from the named AVA (for example “Napa Valley”), while the remainder of the grapes may come from outside of the AVA. That wine must be fully finished in the state in which the AVA is located.
California law requires that 100% of the grapes come from within California for any wine labeled with the appellation of origin California or a geographical subdivision of the state. This is stricter than the federal labeling standard.
So, if you noticed in “B” listed above, if the AVA reads Oakville or Rutherford you could be drinking 15% cabernet sauvignon from Mendocino or Paso Robles, not from your beloved Oakville or Rutherford!
Does this matter to you?
Should it?
While I do expect that if I am paying for Rutherford Cabernet, or Russian River Pinot Noir, I fully expect to be getting predominantly grapes from those sites and enjoying the terroir that only those sites can produce!
Terroir begins with the soil!
But I personaly do not mind if it is all 100% from the AVA listed on the bottle. I am more concerned in the quality of the wine vs. the cost. Especially if I am paying upwards of $25 per bottle, I expect my wines to be balanced and expressive no matter what the variety of grape.
Wines should be an expression of the soils, with a balance that incorporates all its main components; tannins, acid, sweetness, and alcohol in a manner where no one single component stands out above any other. This is a quality wine.
Thank you again for your taking the time to read the ramblings of a Texas Wineaux! Please take a few moments to leave a comment, and drop by often for new posts.
For years I was “an every once in a while” wine drinker. Sure I liked wine, but I would just as well enjoy Vodka or beer to be quite honest. Then, like most of us that really enjoy wine and have a passion for it, I had a transformation. As the saying goes “There are 8 million stories in the naked city”, well here is my story.
My casual and somewhat erratic wine drinking became a “passion for the nectar of the gods” in September of 2003. My soon to be bride Margie and I journeyed to Paris, France on an adventure and to get married. I rented a tiny 352 sf. apartment in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, and we spent that evening enjoying my favorite pastime; sitting on a corner Bistro Café sipping wine, talking, and people watching. The next day we packed a bag and drove to a small village by the name of Ducey, not far from Mont St. Michel off the coast of Normandy. There my beautiful wife Margie and I were married.
Yes, I have been accused of being a hopeless romantic at times. And it being both of our second marriages, we decided to spend the money on a dream trip instead of a big wedding that neither of us really wanted. Neither of us spoke more than a few words of French, and with a bad Texas accent I might add. We were excited and nervous about what we would discover when we arrived, but we were in love and were ready for an adventure. It could not have been more exciting and romantic. I rented an incredibly charming room on the river at an Inn that began life in the 15th century as a mill. We were married in a 17th Century Chateau by the Mayor, who happened to be the owner of the Inn. Afterward we had a beautiful dinner in town at Auberge de La Selune, at the time a 2-star Michelin restaurant. We were so happy and in love!
The next day we took toured Mont St. Michel, and then further up the Normandy Coast to visit the D-Day museums where Margie’s Father had survived in the 1944 invasion. Afterward we journeyed back to Paris and our tiny apartment where we explored the ‘City of Lights’, arguably the most beautiful city in the world. Not a bad way to start a marriage wouldn’t you agree?
What we discovered very quickly (ok the first day!) is that wine is three things in France;
1. Cheap.
2. Available everywhere.
3. Really, really good!
In fact, at the time a bottle of water at a corner bistro was about $8-$10 Euro, and a decent bottle of red wine was about $5-$8 Euro.
Huh…wine is cheaper than water? We quickly huddled together for a ‘family meeting’ and came up with a great game plan to save money…drink wine instead of water whenever we possible!
After an unbelievable week in Paris, we inevitably were forced to travel back home (oh dreaming to have been born an aristocrat…). We had managed somehow that week to keep from drinking 14 bottles of wine, so we carefully wrapped them up in our luggage and brought them back to Texas. But alas, we soon drank all of those and started looking for replacements. This is where I got the Wine Bug. The more I; studied, read, tasted, and enjoyed this incredible thing called wine, the more and more I realized I really didn’t know much at all.
Besides being an occasional hopeless romantic, my other vice is; when I get into anything that I really love I become somewhat obsessed. I read every article on wine, attended every class, cornered every expert I can find and pick their mind, and …research, research, research.
Luckily for all of us that love wine, I am sure you can attest the wine research can be extremely rewarding as you open bottle after bottle and enjoy the contents inside!
Since this enlightenment into the wine world my collection has grown and grown. I have learned a few things in the few years since I started collecting, and perhaps I can offer a few words of advice, that you may get some value from it. Especially if you are just getting started in this wide, wide world of wine and you are considering expanding your collection to more than the 2-3 bottles that you may currently keep on hand for dinner.
STORAGE:
What ever you think your bottle count will eventually be, do yourself a favor now and double or even triple it! Allow for future growth. Your tastes and palate will evolve and change through the months and years and you should allow for the changes that will inevitably come.
Consider starting out with a simple 18-52 bottle wine refrigerator that you can find at your local home improvement store. You can also search the internet for great deals. These wine fridges are not expensive, and typically can be found in the range of $200-$800 depending on the size and quality. This is all you need to start. After the 52 bottle range, the price escalates quickly as you move into commercial models, but I would not consider a commercial model unless you plan on 200+ bottles or more collection.
Fun Fact: It is amazing how if you have an empty wine fridge, you will suddenly have the compulsion to stock it!
Bottom line is you will need to store the wine somewhere that is void of: Vibration, bright light, heat, and extreme temperature changes. If you simply do not have room for a wine fridge, then store them in a cool dark place like a seldom used closet or even under the bed. Never store wine on top of your home refrigerator! They vibrate and emit heat; both are very harmful to wine.
Bottles should be stored on the side, making sure to keep the corks moist. A dry cork can allow air to seep into the bottle and cause what is called “corkage”. This will cause the wine to age quickly and oxidize.
WHAT TO COLLECT?
What to keep in your cellar is a very personal issue, and every wine aficionado that I know has a slightly different idea of what the ‘perfect wine cellar’ would be. I would suggest starting with what you like and purchase a couple of extra bottles. Don’t get caught up with only buying 90+ point bottles that a so-called expert is hyping. Use your own judgment and drink what you like.
Question: What is a good bottle of wine?
Answer: A bottle of wine that you enjoy, no matter what the price.
My tastes vary from day to day, and sometimes I don’t know what I am going to pop a cork on until I go to the cellar and it jumps out at me. Other times the food or weather outside will dictate what to open. Most times however I just crave a Pinot Noir or a Cab! Wine and food can be incredible partners, and to truly enjoy this magic you will want to have a variety of different bottles on hand to mix and match to your particular tastes at the time.
If your goal is to have a workable cellar that you will nearly always have what you want or need on hand, I would highly suggest a game plan.
Here is a basic guideline I would start with:
WHITES:
6- Chardonnay; 3 oaked (Sonoma) and 3 un-oaked (Burgundy, Chablis).
4- Sauvignon Blanc; 2 New Zealand and 2 Napa or Sonoma.
4- Sparkling; 2 Champagne and 2 other such as Cava (Spain) or Prosecco (Italian).
2 –Riesling; 1 German and 1 Australian (Great with spicy food!).
REDS:
2-4 Bordeaux, buy either “off” vintages (2006, ’08, ’11, ’12) and good producers, or lesser known producers in great vintages (2005, ’09, ’10).
2-4 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Nothing better with a steak!
6- Italian; 2 Chianti Classico (Sangiovese), 2 Tuscan (blends), 1 Montepulciano, and 1 Barolo, Barbaresco, or Amarone. These are great food wines!
6- Pinot Nior; 2 Burgundy (see Bordeaux guidelines), 2 Sonoma (Russian River or Sonoma Coast), 2 Willamette, Oregon.
4- Grenache/Syrah blends (GSM); 2 Southern Rhone (Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Vacqueyras), 2 from Australia, or Garnacha from Spain.
Everyone will differ on the exact bottles and even varities, but I believe this is a great beginning wine collection. You can grow it from this point!
Remember; don’t believe you have to spend big bucks on each bottle. Search for the steals, and when you find one…tell others about it! If I learned one thing from this odyssey with wine over the years, it is that spending ridiculous amounts on a single bottle of wine is just not necessary.
Befriend the owner or manager at your local wine shop, and ask him for suggestions on great buys. Join a wine group that meets a couple of times per month. Go to wine tastings whenever you can. Most of all find out what kinds of wine you like best and fill your collection with things you and your friends like and ‘want to drink’, not what a so-called wine expert put a high score on.
I hope you enjoyed reading this jaunt down memory lane as much as I did, and you got something you can use in your own wine journey. Please let me know your thoughts in the comment section!
