Wines in California have been dominated of late by the modern style of wine making; i.e. big wines with high alcohol, low acidity, and very fruit forward. However there is a very discernable movement in the last few years to go back to the more “old world style” of wines where overall balance in all areas is much more important. This is the manifesto of in pursuit of balance.

 

 

Which is a better wine; rich buttery California chardonnay dominated by oak, or  balanced French Burgundy that is dominated by terroir?

I have had this argument with many of my wine buddies, and often with my beautiful wife Margie. She and her girlfriends prefer the rich, buttery, oaky chards to the French Burgundy. The bigger the butter bomb the better in their opinion! And who am I to say what is right and what is wrong? Obviously the market ultimately decides what is most popular. The big butter bomb chardonnay, as well as over ripe pinot noir with low acidity have become some of most popular and best selling wines in America. Thank the movie Sideways for the explosion of Pinot Noir in the US 10 years ago this month. But the proliferation of plunk wines that comes with quick popularity has ended us at this juntion.

I personally do not enjoy these high alcohol and highly manipulated wines. In fact almost refuse to drink them. Life is too short to drink a wine I do not enjoy. So I have gotten to the point I simply open a bottle for her, and then open  another bottle of wine for myself.

I became a member of the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) club many years ago.

Then I toured and tasted Chablis and Cote d’ Beaune in Burgundy, France several years ago, and I discovered what the true expression of the Chardonnay  grape can actually be!

Chardonnay when done right and not overworked by an overzealous winemaker can be the most expressive, incredible, food friendly and world class wines in the world!

The same can be said for Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast, and of course Burgundy, France!

But the style of Pinot Noir that has been becoming more and more popular in California is made in the “Modern Style”, rather than “Old World” style. What is the difference you say?

The Modern style  of California wine industry has been dominated by a richer, fruit forward, low-acidity, with excessive use of oak, and a high alcohol approach. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay have been at the forefront of this movement.  Balance (in my opinion) has completely been lost in making many wines, as some winemakers keep pushing the limits further and further. And even though we love big in Texas:

Bigger is NOT always better. Balance in wines is better!

So let’s consider balance, and why this is important when it comes to wine.

There is a group of individuals, wineries, sommeliers, and wine writers that have joined a movement by the name of In Pursuit Of Balance (IPOB). Organized by Jasmine Hirsch, of Hirsch Vineyards, and Rajat Parr, owner of RN74 and the wine director for the Michael Mina Group of restaurants, they are intent on highlighting what the organizers feel is a style of winemaking that goes underappreciated in California. That is a true balance in winemaking.

“The genius of Pinot Noir is found in subtlety and poise, in its graceful and transparent expression of the soils and climate in which it is grown. Balance in Pinot Noir enables these characteristics to reach their highest expression in a complete wine where no single element dominates the whole.”  – The Manifesto Of Balance

This includes:

• • Whole-picture farming and winemaking. Artisan winemaking techniques are a given at this point. Looking beyond that, let’s consider farming, or even pre-farming decisions, and the thought process behind identifying a great terroir. How do these decisions affect the balance of the ultimate wine?
• • Growing healthy fruit and maintaining natural acidity to achieve optimum ripeness without being overripe. What is ripeness and what is its relation to balance?
• • A question of intention: Can balance in wine be achieved through corrections in the winery or is it the result of a natural process informed by carefully considered intention at every step of the way?
• • Reconsidering the importance of heritage Pinot Noir clones with respect to the omnipresent Dijon clones. What do heritage clones contribute to balanced wine?

Without getting to complicated  and drug down by minutia;

Wines should be an expression of the soils, with a balance that incorporates all its main components; tannins, acid, sweetness, and alcohol in a manner where no one single component stands out above any other.

Robert Parker Jr. has been a big proponant of  higher alcohol and very fruit driven wines for decades, and his 100 pt scale has rewarded exactly this style of winemaking. As such as you can imagine he has been very critical of IPOB. In fact he was quoted:

“I just don’t think that people making those wines should be trashing the other wines that are big, rich, full-bodied, and alcoholic as some sort of beverage for Neanderthals,” said Parker while speaking at a public gathering of wine professionals last year.

Now I understand that a so called perfect wine is not always possible. There are many things that have a huge effect on the grapes during the growing season such as the weather, soil, climate, and sunlight that play a large role in determineing an excellent,  good or bad vintage.

The French have a word for this called “Terroir”.

But balance should be the main goal for every serious winemaker!

So if you agree with me and the IPOB movement toward a pursuit of balance in California wines, what is the next step? Where do you find these wines?

My personal favorite is Foppoli Wines located in Russian River Valley, Sonoma. Now granted these wines are almost impossible to find unless you are on the membership list. Foppoli believes; great wine is primarily made in the vineyard first and foremost, judicious use of new oak (or no oak), perfect acidity is paramont, and near perfect balance is the most important attribute. And I dare say  Foppoli Lion Edition Chardonnay is one of the best chardonnays I have ever tasted. Email Christina Foppoli at ctfoppoli@yahoo.com  next time you are going to Sonoma and ask for a personal tasting at the ranch. Foppoli insists on meeting you personally;  this is the only way they will add you to the membership list or sell you wine. Trust me when I say it is worth it!

Check out the many wineries and producers such as Hirsch, Twomey Cellars, and Au Bon Climat who have committed to the Manifesto To Balance for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay at the IPOB website here.

Thank you for taking the time to review my ramblings and thoughts. Please leave a comment (good or not so good) as I would love your thoughts on this or any of the other articles here at Texas Wineaux.

Terry Hill is the Texas Wineaux!